Humectantes, oclusivos etc

Published in Dermatology

Journal Scan / Research · March 26, 2020

Changes in Skin Barrier Function Following Single and Repeated Applications of Four Types of Moisturizers

Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology: JEADV

TAKE-HOME MESSAGE

• The authors tested four categories of moisturizers (humectant, occlusive, ceramide, and hydrating) on the forearm skin of healthy individuals. After a single application, no change in trans epidermal water loss (TEWL) was seen. However, after 2 weeks, the occlusive and ceramide products appeared to decrease TEWL compared with other products. After 2 weeks, hydration was improved by the humectant and hydrating products only. Despite differences in the pH of each product, the skin pH did not change significantly with 2 weeks of repeated application.

• Although many patients request them, it is challenging to provide personalized moisturizer recommendations which are evidence-based. Studies like this one help to delineate the characteristics of products, but additional clinical studies are needed to determine which characteristics are significant in vivo.

– Margaret Hammond, MD

Written by

 

 

Sarah L Chamlin MD

This group compared 4 different moisturizing products using the biometric measurements of trans epidermal water loss (TEWL), hydration, friction, elasticity, surface lipid and pH.  Measurements were made in the first 24-hour period and after 2 weeks of twice daily use in 25 volunteers. 

The products included a humectant (glycerin, sodium lactate, PCA and urea), occlusive (petrolatum and dimethicone), ceramide (ceramide II) and hydrating (hyaluronic acid and botanicals) product.  The humectant and hydrating products significantly increased hydration after 2 weeks, and the occlusive and ceramide products improved TEWL significantly.  The occlusive, the greasiest of the products, demonstrated the most significant increase in skin surface lipids, and the humectant demonstrated the most dramatic rise in skin friction. 

What is the take home for this study?  The biometric properties of the humectant (has the ability to attract and maintain moisture) and the occlusive (blocks water loss) are most favorable depending on the desired response.  Petrolatum-based greasy emollients remain the mainstay for most infants and young children with xerosis and atopic dermatitis.  Humectants remain effective and are likely more desirable formulations for young adults and older individuals. 

Abstract

Large differences exist in the composition and effect of different moisturizers on skin barrier function. There are a few comparative studies with biometric measurements in this field, specially in normal skin. Here, we compared the effect of four types of moisturizers containing humectant (A), occlusive (B), ceramide (C) and hydrating (D) ingredients on healthy skin barrier function, after single application as well as after 2 weeks of repeated use (Table 1).

Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology: JEADV

Changes in Skin Barrier Function Following Single and Repeated Applications of 4 Types of Moisturizers: A Randomized Controlled Trial

J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol 2020 Feb 11;[EPub Ahead of Print], A Samadi, S Ahmad Nasrollahi, M Maghsoudi Ashtiani, C Abels, A Firooz 

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Benjamin Hidalgo-Matlock
Skin Care Physicians of Costa Rica

Clinica Victoria en San Pedro: 4000-1054
Momentum Escazu: 2101-9574

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